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How to Install a Mini Split: DIY and Professional Installation Guide

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Whether you’re a professional contractor or a handy homeowner, installing a mini split system can be a daunting task. However, it’s not as hard as you think. Compared to traditional forced air AC systems, mini splits don’t require ducts. All they need is a small hole to connect the indoor and outdoor units.

In this article, we go over the steps for installing a ductless mini split, for both DIY and professional contractors. We also provide tips for optimal placement for both the indoor and outdoor units to get the most out of your mini split.

DIY vs Professional Installation

One of the most common questions we get is: “Can I install a mini split myself?”

If you’re a DIYer and thinking of installing a mini split yourself, you’ll be happy to know that yes, it is possible, and doing so can save you money. Whether you are planning on installing a traditional mini split and having a professional come in to charge the system and start it up or going for the even easier option of installing a 100% DIY mini split system, you can reap some pretty serious savings. And to top it all off, you’ll end up saving money in the long run since mini split systems are highly efficient compared to central heat and air.

In order to successfully install your new unit, there are a few key details to keep in mind to make the installation process a bit easier. By taking these factors into consideration, you’ll ensure that your mini split installation is as smooth and successful as possible.

How to Install a Mini Split in 3 Steps

Installing a mini split system can be divided into 3 parts:

  1. Install the indoor unit
  2. Install the outdoor unit
  3. Connect refrigerant piping from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit

Before you begin the installation process, it’s essential to have a few key tools and parts on hand.

Tools & Parts for DIY/Professional Mini Split Installation

A mini split installation will require the following parts for a professional installation:

  • Mounting plate*
  • Clip anchors*
  • Seal*
  • Drain joint*
  • Wall sleeve*
  • Nitrogen Tank
  • Drill
  • Hole Saw
  • Torque Wrenches
  • Vacuum Pump
  • Flare Tool
  • Tube Cutter
  • Screwdriver
  • Allen Wrenches
  • Spray-on Leak Detector
  • Adjustable Wrench
  • Digital Refrigerant Scale
  • R410a Manifold Gauges
  • Tape Measure
  • Line sets*

*Included in a DIY mini split

For a DIY installation, you will only need the following tools to complete installation:

  • Drill
  • Screwdriver
  • Hole Saw
  • Adjustable Wrenches

How to Install a Mini Split: Step by Step Guide

  1. Install the mounting bracket

  • Look for a section of wall free of wires, pipes and ducts.
  • Mark the stud locations. Ensure the space behind can be safely drilled.
  • Fasten the screws and mount the bracket.

2. Make a pilot hole

  • The drilling should be done from the inside to outside.
  • While drilling, point the drill slightly downwards to the outside. This slope ensures the line drains properly.
  • With the pilot hole done, go outside and check that there are no obstructions for the actual hole.

3. Drill the actual hole


  • Using a hole saw, bore from the inside to the outside.
  • Once you drill into the wall cavity, pause boring. Inspect the hole for possible lines or obstructions.
  • After making sure the path is clear, complete the hole by drilling from the outside.

4. Run the AC line set


  • With the hole in place, you can unpack the mini split line set. Uncoil the line from the evaporator.
  • From the inside, feed the line through the hole to the outside. We recommend having someone on the outside to help pull and guide the line.
  • Carefully bend the line set down to the condenser.
  • Make sure the plastic collar at the end of the line set stays in place. This rigid collar helps ensure the line stays connected to the condenser.
  • Once all lines have been fed outside, run the drain last. 
  • Connect the drain extension as necessary. Then wrap it with electrical tape to keep it in place.
  • Cover the line set section within the hole with a foam sleeve.
  • Replace the insulation in the wall cavity.

Check out our Mini Split Line Sets guide for proper sizing.

5. Install the evaporator

  • Place the evaporator on the mounting bracket.
  • Ensure it sits snugly on the wall with no play.

6. Install the condenser

  • Before mounting the condenser, make sure the line set can reach it easily without routing or obstructions.
  • For the electrical part of the installation, check out our dedicated guide: Wiring Specifications for Installing Ductless Mini-Splits & HVAC Units.
  • Place the line set so it hugs the exterior wall.
  • Double check the minimum clearances for the condenser according to the manual.
  • Mount the condenser on the wall or place it on a pad that can support its weight.
  • Ensure the final placement area is free from bushes, water or ice accumulation, and other obstructions that can hinder its operation.

7. Connect the refrigerant lines

  • Refrigerant lines differ by brand. Consult your manual for the proper steps.
  • DIY lines use a locking mechanism to press the line connections together and lock them in place.
  • With the lines secured, check that there’s enough length to reach the outside without straining. 
  • Also look for kinks, sharp bends and other hindrances that can obstruct the flow.
  • Power up the system to test the connection.

8. Cover the line set

  • Once you’ve verified the mini split is working properly, it’s time to cover the connections.
  • Starting from the outside, seal the hole.
  • Cover the line set with protective plastic covering or a metal channel.
  • Use self-tapping screws to anchor the plastic or metal channel to the wall.
  • Test the protective covers for play or looseness. They should be fastened securely to the wall without any movement to ensure years of protection from the elements.

Buying a Mini Split

There are multiple types of mini splits on the market, but only a handful are designed for do-it-yourself installation. MRCOOL DIY mini splits are specifically designed for convenient, easy installation, and the best part? They ship with everything you need to complete the installation! No running to the hardware store to buy last-minute parts and accessories — all you need is a drill and drill bits to install a mini split yourself.

If you are a contractor (or plan on hiring a professional contractor), you have a wider selection of choices. We offer mini splits from renowned brands like LG, Daikin and Panasonic. To determine which model is right for your needs, check out our Air Conditioner BTU Calculator.

Image of MRCOOL DIY Mini Split
The MRCOOL DIY mini split system is easy to install and requires no special tools.

In Over Your Head? Call Us for Guidance

If you’re hesitant about installing a mini split yourself, be sure to hire a reputable, qualified HVAC professional who can tackle the process for you. Need some guidance? Call us and we’ll be happy to answer any mini split related questions you may have.

Mickey Luongo

Mickey is the resident heating and air conditioning expert with over 15 years of experience in the industry.

126 thoughts on “How to Install a Mini Split: DIY and Professional Installation Guide”

  1. 9 Common Air Conditioner Problems & How to Fix Them says:

    […] bottom line: Central AC units are more complex than window or mini split units. It’s certainly worth it to try and diagnose the problem yourself, but any major repairs should […]

    Reply
  2. Bryan Spanos says:

    I live in Massachusetts and would prefer not to attach the unit directly to my house. How much vibration or noise is expected if I did? I will have a TV on the inside of the wall.

    Reply
        1. Mickey Luongo says:

          Since you are in Massachusetts, you have to worry about snow. Putting it on the ground would eliminate any vibration issue, but you would need to make sure that it is 1-2 feet off the ground.

          Reply
  3. Nick says:

    I would like to mt the outside unit on my house foundation about 12″ from the ground. How close can the back of the unit be to the fondation?

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      No, you can’t really reuse the space that the PTAC was in. The mini split condenser must be fully outside. It can either be placed on the ground or mounted to an outside wall.

      Reply
  5. Andrew says:

    Is there a maximum distance that the compressor can be from the air handling unit? I would like to install my compressor unit on the ground, and my room being cooled is on the second floor. Can I simply pipe everything up and across the roof to the air handling unit? I am looking at a Gree Rio 18k btu unit. Trying to avoid noise/vibration caused by mounting the compressor on the roof as I the application is for a sound studio.

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      Every unit has a maximum distance that the line set can be run. There will also be a maximum height separation. Check the specs of the unit you are looking at to be sure that it will work for your application.

      Reply
  6. Scott S says:

    1. how long of a run can the piping be from the condenser to the head units?
    2. does the length of run effect the efficiency of the head units?
    3. where is the ideal location for the condenser ion regards to the sun , shade, north east or west side of house etc., also can it be installed under a porch ?

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      1. It depends on the specific unit you choose. Some are limited to 25 feet. Others can go over 100 feet.
      2. No, length does not impact efficiency.
      3. It can be installed under a porch as long as there is still enough air flow around the unit.

      Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      Yes, they can be, as long as the height difference does not exceed the maximum stated in the specifications.

      Reply
  8. Jason says:

    How do you handle going around gutters for a 2nd floor mini split? Not really finding any examples online.

    Reply
  9. Adam A says:

    How far should the condenser be placed from a neighbor’s window, or from an attached party wall? Is it better to attach the condenser to the foundation or on a stand on concrete floor in order to prevent any potential vibrations or noise issues with the neighbor? I was told the line set should be 18″ away from the party wall separates the 2 houses.

    Reply
  10. Eugene says:

    Is it advantageous to install the air handler above a window within 7 feet of a ceiling fan to help circulate the air around a larger room?

    Reply
  11. Ted says:

    I was wondering if I can mount the exterior unit higher off the ground, say 4 feet or so. It will be mounted with brackets to the wall. I’m nervous about having to cut down the included piping. Also, I’ve bought a 240 system. I can just wire that to a 220 exterior plug, right? I was using a 220 interior plug for a wall unit that I’m replacing with this. Thanks so much for replying to all of us!

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      You can mount the unit as high as you want using a bracket. In most cases, 240 volts is the same as 220 volts. It cannot be wired to an exterior plug that is already in use, it needs a dedicated line. Also, most mini splits are hard wired and require this use of a quick disconnect switch.

      Reply
  12. Ted says:

    I am installing the outSide part of my ductless heat pump in a screenroom attached to the house .
    My installation Manuel say that 24″ clearance is required above the outdoor unit .
    How important is this ? I would like install it with 18″ clearance above because of limited space .

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      The clearance is very important. If you do not have enough clearance, it can cause the unit to overheat and could void your warranty.

      Reply
  13. Ron says:

    I bought a senville quad mini split. I’m having trouble on mounting the heads in the rooms. I bought 2 with 25′ line sets the other 2 have 15’. Would it be ok to run the lines through the ceiling? I’m mount the outside unit on the gable an running the lines through the attic. So the lines would run up about 18″ then 90 towards the outside unit. Then 90 in to the unit these are fixed lines I will have excess line any special way to leave the excess lines? The gable side I’m mounting does face the wind i wouldn’t think it would be any different than mounting it on the roof.

    Reply
  14. Brenda says:

    Is it ok to install the outside unit on a stand in front of a window but the unit will be higher than the window. So looking out the window the stand would be on either side of the window and the unit would be on the stop of the stand . Or should the unit be installed a certain distance from the window Tks

    Reply
  15. Brenda says:

    Hi :
    I am wondering if the unit is mounted on the inside of a basement room, then the hole in the foundation going from this inside unit to the outside to connect it to the outside unit,
    can this be laying on the ground. In other words how far above grade should the inside connection going through the basement wall be.

    Question #2 Can the outside unit be mounted under a 4 ft. high by approx. 20 ft. long patio with the front side of the step open but has lattice wood covering for looks only. In saying this the piping for the 2 basement units would then be run through a closet up by the rafters inside the basement. The basement has ceiling tiles but inside the closet it is wide open to the rafters. Is it a safety concern to run the piping inside a closet that is all exposed in the ceiling.

    thank you

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      There are no special requirements for how far the above grade the connection needs to be. Keep in mind that with this type of setup you would need a condensate pump for the indoor unit.

      Installing the outdoor unit under a deck would most likely not provide enough clearance for the unit. Please check the manual for the unit you are considering to see the exact clearances.

      The piping can be installed in a closet that is exposed, no issue there.

      Reply
      1. Brenda says:

        Thank you but I need to give a little more clarification please on the part about the line coming out of the basement wall. Can it be below grade on the outside of the basement wall.
        Thanks

        Reply
        1. Mickey Luongo says:

          It can be below grade. I would recommend running the line set through PVC pipe if it is going to be below grade.

          Reply
      2. Brenda says:

        Thank you …just one last question.
        Is there somewhere I can read the requirements myself to know the clearance needed for a Daikin model unit to see if it can be mounted under such a patio. Or even somewhere on line to tell me.
        Once again THANK YOU

        Reply
  18. Dave T says:

    Is there any code requirements that would prevent me from mounting my outdoor unit 10′ up in a gable wall. It would have 40″ from the top of the gable for clearance. Also installing the disconnect that high next to the unit? Or am I required to run the disconnect down to a reachable height? Thank you

    Reply
  19. Jerry says:

    Great subject !!
    can you further explain why such a large clearance is required? It seems to me that as long as you have more cubic feet of clear space around the unit than that of the inlets of the unit, it should be enough. Mine is wall bracket mounted and has approx. 12 inches at rear and below has about 18 inches. I feel that a housing that is at least 6 inches from both sides and angles upward from the top of the unit at about 45 degrees to the siding, the unit would be incapable of drawing more air that can be provided by this clearance. what am I missing ??

    Really appreciate your comments!

    thanks….Jerry

    Reply
  20. Jenn says:

    We are considering mounting the inside unit under an existing windowsill that already has holes to the exterior. Is there any overwhelming issue with this from a heating and cooling perspective? The space is otherwise clear on the inside. And if we are to do this, does the outside unit need to be either above or below the inside unit? Preferably we would mount the outside unit much higher than the inside one. Thanks in advance for your insight – we have been grappling with this for months.

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      Most indoor units are designed to be mounted at least 5 feet from the floor. If it is mounted lower, the airflow will suffer. You should check the clearance requirements for the specific product you are considering.

      Reply
      1. Julia Alaniz says:

        You answered this grandma’s question. I’m short and need to reach to be able to clean filters. Thanks.

        Reply
  21. Scott Sturtevant says:

    What is the best location for the outside unit ?
    I have heard that the unit should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
    I have also heard that the unit should not be placed under a wood porch or deck.

    Reply
  22. Margarita Friedman says:

    Can the condensors be installed inside of a 70 x 40″feet basement of a building built in 1900? Its walls are made with stone. I can open a ceiling windows under the back porch to create more air flow.

    Because KCMO has too many subzero days I feel that installing the converters l “inside” , it might prevent them from shutting down because of the cold. Thank you

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      They can be installed inside, but keep in mind that they may drip water and they will add heat to the space in the summer and cold air in the winter.

      Reply
  23. Steve says:

    Can the lines from the condenser to the head unit be run through the wall instead being on the surface of the exterior siding?

    Reply
  24. paula says:

    what is the Florida code for installing ductless condensers? Due to hurricanes, do they have to strapped down like duct condensers (e.g., masonry blocks sandwiched between two hurricane rated pads about 16 inches off the ground)?

    Reply
  25. Noah says:

    Can I run the piping lines through the attic 24’ far from the condenser to the indoor unit ? Thank you in advance .

    Reply
  26. Brian Roth says:

    Can you explain the oil trap concept for line sets? I saw a quick blurb about this on an LG install video. Also, a blurb about a loop right before the line set attaches to the outdoor unit. Thanks

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      LG units should not be installed with oil traps. That is something that may have been used on older units but now can harm the newer systems. LG does recommend setting up a trap on the drain line to prevent water from going back to the indoor unit.

      Reply
  27. Chris G says:

    Can I install a 50 foot long split system refrigerant line UNDER vinyl siding. I don’t think this complies with best practices for proper installation. Also are pvc line covers available in colors to be less obvious on wall. Thank you.

    Reply
  28. Alan Douillette says:

    RE: Mitsubish MUYGL12NAU1/MSYGL12NAU1…The insulated refrigerant lines/copper tubing connecting the first floor indoor unit and the outdoor compressor only needed about 10 feet of 15/17 ft of tubing to connect. The remaining was 6 ft+ of line were coiled horizontally behind the compressor. Was told in order to maintain mfg warranty the line had to be installed that way. I have a pic but don’t know how to send to you. Would appreciate your opinion regarding this type of installation?

    Reply
  29. Joe Curthoys says:

    Hi Mickey,
    We recently bought a spec house and all the lines are installed for a ductless system. Is there a way we can determine what units where planned for the home so we can purchase them ourselves.? Or Can we order what units we deem are appropriate …. would they work on the existing lines ? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Joe

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      You would need to measure the lines and match the units up accordingly. For example, if the lines are 1/4″ and 3/8″ you would be able to use a 9,000 or 12,000 BTU unit from most brands.

      Reply
  30. Jim Laner says:

    Are factory made brass flare elbows allowed in either the suction or liquid side of the lineset? I have a situation where I really need to turn a sharp corner. 4″ radius bent copper tubing will be very challenging. Pioneer 18k wall air handler, 3/8″ x 1/2″ piping to 3 zone compressor. About 35 ft of lineset to this air handler. Thanks!

    Reply
  31. Peter Taylor says:

    Is it possible to install a ductless wall unit at an angle? I have a dormer and the slope is the only accessable mounting position.

    Reply
  32. Robin Church says:

    Hi Mickey,
    I have a Ductless Mini-Split Air Conditioner, my room I have it in is all brown wood and I don’t want the white unit to stand out, can I Paint or put a wood cover over the unit? Thanks

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      Painting over covering the unit with wood can restrict air flow and cause issues with performance. It is not recommended.

      Reply
  33. Mike says:

    Thanks for the informative article. Is there a minimum distance between the condenser unit and the head unit? I’m planning on putting one in and it will have about a 9′ run to the condenser. Will it be noisier than one with a 15-20′ distance?
    Thank you.

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      It depends on the brand. You would want to check the specs to be sure, but it is usually best to have a minimum of a 12 foot line set for optimum performance.

      Reply
  34. AJ Fritz says:

    Would it be possible to mount the condenser unit on a Widow’s Walk? I’m looking at installing a mini-spit system in the 3rd floor of a Victorian house.

    Reply
  35. Paul says:

    Is there any harm when only using one zone on a multi zone heat pump? Looking ahead for future expansion.

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      You would have to check for your specific system. LG for example requires that at least two indoor units are used with any multi zone system.

      Reply
  36. Wendy McClendon says:

    Thank you for your article! We have bought a Gree unit to install in our basement. My concern is location of seating in regards to the unit. Ideally we would position the unit on the wall parallel to the longest stretch of the room, but my concern is that there is TV seating within 4 feet of that wall. Will the air blow right in someone’s ear or will the noise be too much? The alternative is to place the wall unit behind the seating, which is perpendicular to the length of the room, right behind the seating area. Having no experience with these unit we have no idea what to expect and we haven’t been able to find any tips on-line so far. Any help would be appreciated.

    Reply
  37. Megan McLean says:

    Hi Mikey,

    I have 3 mini split Fujitsu wall mounted ac’s in my new condo. One of them was too wide to be flush against the wall and so the plastic overlaps wood trim on both sides. As a result, it’s dripping water. A contractor came in and tried to put on extra insulation etc. but it’s still dripping. We already have two Fujitsus in other rooms linked with the outdoor unit, and this brand doesn’t come in a smaller size that would be compatible. Is there anything that can be done? Should we cut into the trim to make it fit flush against the wall?

    Many thanks!
    Meg

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      It must be flush and level to prevent it from dripping. The drain pan in the unit is not designed to hold water on any kind of angle.

      Reply
  38. Karl says:

    I have a problem because of where my upstairs unit is I could not do a direct electrical run to the controller/compressor so there’s a splice in the run. The upstairs unit will power up and then shut down in less than a minute. Should the splice be soldered? Or something else?

    Reply
  39. JP says:

    Renter would like to install mini split. Homeowner does not want pay for unit or put hole in wall. Can mini split unit be vented through window so that renter can take with at the end of lease term?.

    Reply
  40. Charles says:

    I am installing the condensing unit of a min-split system on my roof and was wondering if a flashing boot and 4 inch pvc with elbows would be ok to run the condensing line and power line through it? I was going to use a couple elbows and seal it with spray foam insulation inside the PVC after installed so bugs can’t get into attic.

    Reply
  41. Al says:

    I am installing a Fujitsu split ac unit. I would like to know if the wall units piping can come out of the side instead of the back.

    Reply
  42. Daniel says:

    I live in a manufactured home, can i place the outdoor unit under the house? There should be enough clearance per manufacturer requiements on the unit i’m looking at, also how high BTU can i go without needing a 220V line and if i do need a 220V, how many amps breaker will i need? Thanks

    Reply
  43. JD says:

    How many amp breaker do i use for a 12k btu mrcooldiy mini split? Or can i tap on a regular line without adding a dedicated line for the unit?

    Reply
  44. doug mayne says:

    I am mounting an indoor unit nd having trouble getting to hang properly on the mounting bracket. It does not want to fit flush with the wall and snap in place to the mounting bracket. the 1/4 and 1/2 inch line set is running horizontal on the back of the indoor unit and seems to be taking up to much room for it to connect to the mount properly.
    any suggestions? This is a Fujitsu ASU15rlq unit.

    Reply
  45. Rick says:

    We’re considering the DIY Mr. Cool mini-split for our garage. Can we run run the hoses through the ventilation grate about 12″ above floor level instead of drilling a hole in the wall next to the indoor unit? The hoses would run down the inside wall, which is fine cosmetically, out through grate near floor level, then to outside unit close by.
    Thanks for any advice!

    Reply
  46. Piper Rogers says:

    Thanks for the info in this article. I’m looking to have a specific question answered. Is it appropriate to place a mini split with heat pack on a 3rd floor wooden balcony with no drainage line? Basically condensate accumulates all over balcony. It’s either a swampy mess or frozen ice rink.

    Reply
  48. Yenice says:

    Do the units have to have its own power source like a breaker amp? Or can it just get plug in the wall outlet. I am planning to use it in my garage.

    Reply
  49. Susan says:

    We are having a Daikin mini split system installed in a sunroom. Can it go on the exterior wall above the door? There is room. The ceiling is 9-ft and the door is a a normal double French door. There is only 1 exterior wall and the doorway is about the only place to put it. One installer says that is fine but another one says not advisable because it will pull in hot air from the outside every time the door is opened, What is your opinion? Thank you!

    Reply
  50. Mini Split Cleaning & Maintenance - A How To Guide says:

    […] your mini split is installed and running smoothly, you may forget that there is another important step to keep in mind: maintenance. Like any home […]

    Reply
  52. Erik says:

    I am looking to install a mini-split in the master bedroom due to it not heating/cooling it like the rest of the house. The master bedroom which is farest from the furnace (MB is on the 2nd floor on the opposite side of the house). When calculating BTU needs should I also consider the master bathroom and walk in closet in sq footage. The bedroom is roughly 325 sq ft and the bathroom and closet is another 225 sq ft. Thanks.

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      If you plan on leaving the doors open to those spaces, you should factor in some of the area. Air does not move very well through doors, but some will make it into those spaces and help to condition them.

      Reply
  53. Jeanette Painter says:

    I put in the mini-split unit in a rented home and now the owners want to sell the house, can I take the mini-split unit with me when I move.. Thank u

    Reply
  54. Burton Mckeown says:

    When running the fixed lines on my mini split can I use elbows or that restrict the flow to much.

    Reply
  55. T. Davies says:

    We have a kitchen with a laundry room above. The laundry room has a drain and the line can be connected. Can the kitchen below have a ductless directly below on the wall ? Question- can the line go up to the drain in the laundry room or will it not flow up from the ductless. The ceiling is open in the kitchen so it’s easy access fir wires but the Freon and drainage is the issue. If we go down from the unit it would have to be exposed because our walls are brick. The kitchen is an 1872 kitchen. All walls are brick. Hopefully you are continuing to answer concerns. We are in Virginia.

    Reply
  56. Gerald Joseph LANG says:

    Is there a minimum distance that the condenser must be placed away from propane tanks or a pressure regulator for a gas appliance at the house?

    Reply
  57. Ivory says:

    Hi Mickey,
    We are looking for a reliable option for our condo, but the condo rules don’t allow exterior fixtures or changes. We already have a hole through the wall onto the patio for a regular floor unit A/C that happened to be there when purchased. The master bedroom and spare bedroom need cooling, but the living room is between them and the patio (and hole in the wall). I’m wondering if I’d be able to install the indoor units in the bedroom and run the piping along the roof through the living room and down to the hole and out, with the outdoor unit on the patio? Is there a maximum length the piping can run indoors generally?
    Thank you for your article and any help you can offer!

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      There is no limit to running the lines inside, but it wouldn’t look great. You would want to check with your condo association to see if they would even allow you to have the outdoor unit on the patio. Running power to the outdoor unit would also probably be an issue.

      Reply
  58. David says:

    I currently have a 1 1/2 ton conventional all electric split unit with one vent into my second floor bonus room and this unit has died! A seperate unit for just that one room was installed because neither the ground floor or other second floor units had a path to the bonus room which is over the garage.

    I would like to replace this unit with a mini-split but would like to use the existing through the wall condenser line for the mini-split instead of running a line up the outside wall of the house. Would this be possible?

    Thanks,

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      No, you would need to run a new line set. Conventional systems use a different type of line set than mini splits.

      Reply
  59. Dale Prainito says:

    I have a rectangular shaped room that is 12 feet wide by 40 feet long and want to install a diy system. It would be ideal to install the unit over an interior door that is in the 12 foot wall. Is this okay ?

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      It is not ideal to place it on the short wall as that means that the unit has to through air the full 40 ft to reach the other side. It would be best if you had additional airflow such as ceiling fans to help the unit.

      Reply
  60. Roy Lyle says:

    I have a space I would like to put my mini split inside unit. The top, right side, and bottom would be open, but the left side would be pretty close to the wall 1/2″ would that be a problem? I did not think it would be much different than the 3-4 inches suggested in the instructions? Thanks

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      If you do not follow the manufacturers placement guidelines it will cause performance issues and result in degraded performance.

      Reply
  61. Andy says:

    Is it OK for the outdoor condenser to be under the drip line of the roof? Is it better to place it farther from the house?

    Reply
  62. Bob says:

    Going to get a 2 zone unit, , mounting the condenser fan outside on my deck. Lines going to 2nd floor will rise vertically about 16 ft before running horizontal to fan unit. The first floor lines will rise about 8 ft. Before running horizontal to fan unit. Will the 16 ft. Rise effect the cooling operating of 2nd floor cooling. Or should the rise be limited?

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      You would need to check the specs on the unit you plan on using, but most units allow for much more than a 16ft rise.

      Reply
  63. B Tran says:

    Will installing a mini-split unit yourself void the warranty of the unit? I know one brand mentions to have their unit installed by their list of certified installers to have the warranty of 10yrs upgraded to 12yrs. I’m not worried about the install as much as I am the unit failing in a few years and having to replace it. Sorry i looked through the comments but didn’t see the answer.

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      Most, if not all manufacturers require that units be installed by a licensed professional. The vast majority of mini split failures are from installation error.

      Reply
  64. William says:

    I’d like to get a unit (professionally installed) on my project holiday trailer. It’s 30′ long and 7′ wide and very well insulated. Would it be logical to run just one split unit, maybe a 12K, and expect the cooling effect to work from the front all the way to the rear or should I be looking at 2 interior units?

    Reply
  65. M. Gill says:

    We are planning to install the split unit in our basement. The external unit will sit 2’ higher. Will the drain line be an issue/concern for drainage purposes?

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      Yes, every product has its own specific height and distance requirements. You will need to check the specs for your product.

      Reply
  67. Frank says:

    Can the inside unit be placed on an interior wall, and then run the lines along the surface of the wall towards an exterior wall? I dont care about asthetics because is a finished garage

    Reply
    1. Mickey Luongo says:

      Yes, you can do this. Just keep in mind that if you are running the drain with the lines you will need to maintain a drop so that it will drain properly.

      Reply
  68. Cindy says:

    Hi Mickey,
    I saw u stated outside condenser should be placed at least 12 inches away from wall when mounting on cement slab and above average snowfall. I live in northern Michigan where snow is an issue so friends have recommended I install on wall mount instead of cement slab I was planning. I’ve purchased the Mr Cool DIY 36k which is 16 inches deep. I’m having trouble finding a wall bracket that is deep enough to give the extra foot clearance behind unit. Was wondering what are your thoughts as an expert? Should I install compressor on wall mount instead of ground due to snowfall? I will be using heat feature in winter. Also wondering if 12 inch clearance is still required when mounting on bracket instead of ground? Not sure what to do here so I appreciate any advice. Thanks

    Reply
  70. JD Bush says:

    how long should a drain line be from the ground ?

    also can I go straight down with drain line coming out of wall but run the other lines coming out of the wall horizontally to the condenser?

    thank you, JD

    Reply
  71. Bill Wiliams. says:

    I’m installing a 18000 Perfect Aire, Mini split. I was going to buy the outside bracket that you hang the unite on the wall, the arms on the bracket are 18″ long, this would give you around 4″ clearance from the house, I poured a cement pad 3′ but 2′ this will give me 8″ clearance in the rear, Co said that would we fine and if I l used there bracket it would only be 4″ . I’m hoping this will be alright. ??

    Reply
  72. Danny says:

    Hi,

    I m looking to use the split AC system to replace my gas furnace. 1) What is recommended for heating up a bathroom? Is it just the residual heat from other rooms or should I install a unit inside. 2) I was told I would need a 20k and a 24k multi zone units. I already have a single 18k mounted on the side of the frame house. I would like to mount the other two units the same way. Do you think it would be too heavy to do this? It would be spread across and I’m in the NYC area.

    Many thanks for the help

    Reply

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